Uttar Pradesh - Land of the Taj Mahal, Buddha and Sacred Rivers

The crown jewel of India’s remarkable heritage and the ode to love that is perhaps most identified with India – the Taj Mahal – is only the first experience that the centrepiece of the subcontinent’s history and culture, Uttar Pradesh, has, to offer visitors. Across its river-fed plains, legendary wars were fought, armies conquered, splendid cities created, and the struggle for India’s Independence took seed.

Uttar Pradesh is where the Buddha preached his first sermon and spread the illuminating word, and where the Mughals set up home and suffused it with their rich culture, glorious architecture, and exquisite royal cuisine. It is where the holy waters of the River Ganges cleanses away the sins of millions, giving joy and hope, and where one of the oldest living cities in the world is ageless, deeply spiritual, and replete with shrines, festivals, and bazaars. Here is the sacred Sangam (confluence) of the Ganga and Yamuna rivers – the site of the mind-boggling Kumbh Mela that draws an ocean of devotees and pilgrims from across the world to take a dip in the icy waters.

In Uttar Pradesh lies the seat of North India’s finest traditions of classical music, dance, theatre, art, and literature. Equally famed are its delicate chikankari (embroidery work) workshops, excellent street food, wonderful old brassware and bell metal utensils, stunning gold-threaded silk brocade textiles called Benarsi, and superb traditional musical instruments. Uttar Pradesh has three UNESCO World Heritage Sites – the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort, and Fatehpur Sikri.

Agra

On the alluvial plains between the rivers Ganga and Yamuna, lies Agra, in the state of Uttar Pradesh. Agra’s strategic location ensured that it was a commercial and religious centre for centuries, only cemented further when the mighty Mughals established their capital here and made it their home. The city served as the stage for their political, social, cultural, and religious conquests – but what endures today is their love of nature, elegance, refinement, and passion for the arts. Agra’s beautiful forts, gardens, mausoleums, and monuments stand testament to the majesty of the Mughal legacy. One of the three prestigious points of India’s Golden Triangle in the north, Agra is home to one of the Seven Wonders of the World and three UNESCO World Heritage Sites!

Taj Mahal remains the focus of travellers to Agra. You can get answers to most of your questions from the official Government website.

But, with its heat and dust, chaos and crowds Agra is by no means easy to negotiate; a reason why most trips from Delhi are day trips. However, if you do stay longer, your patience will be rewarded with plenty to see and do for those who are keen to explore beyond its iconic sights. A walk through the local bazaars might yield interesting souvenirs. Agra is famous for handicrafts. The delicate pietra dura or marble inlay work is still practiced by a few craftspeople here. Carpet-weaving, zardozi (gold wire embroidery) work, and handmade leather works are other specialties.

Chambal

India’s rugged Chambal Valley lies at the confluence of the states of Uttar Pradesh (UP), Madhya Pradesh (MP), and Rajasthan; it is only 80 km SE of Agra (in UP), around an hour’s drive from the Taj Mahal.

The jagged ravines and golden sands of Chambal were once notorious for being a much-feared and forbidding region overrun by dacoits and the echoes of gunfire. Today though, Chambal is fast emerging as a different, unique, and exciting destination that holds spectacular landscapes, abundant wildlife, unspoilt habitats, ancient ruins, medieval temples, and centuries-old cattle fairs. Conservation efforts are also on to protect the natural legacy of the Valley’s forests and the wildlife.

A boat safari on the tranquil River Chambal promises to be an unforgettable, rare experience in the wilderness that not only shows off the fiercely beautiful and dramatic terrain but also offers up-close views of the region’s rich wildlife and birdlife – great opportunities for sighting and photography. Walking trails in the ravines and along the River present opportunities to indulge in some fantastic nature watching.

The beautiful River cuts through the tri-state National Chambal Sanctuary (also called the National Chambal Gharial Wildlife Sanctuary) which protects the three highly endangered keystone species of the Sanctuary – the gharial (Indian crocodile so named for the pot-like mass at the end of its long, narrow snout), Gangetic Dolphin, and the red-crowned roof turtle. Other threatened inhabitants of the Sanctuary include the striped hyena, smooth-coated otter, and Indian wolf. The Sanctuary is also home to eight rare turtle species. The Sanctuary is an important bird area and boasts over 300 species of resident and migratory birds such as the Sarus Crane, Pallas’s fish eagle, Indian courser, Indian Skimmer, bar-headed goose, black-bellied tern, greater thick-knee, Lapwing, darters, brown hawk owl, and greater flamingos.

Visitors can explore the 17th century Ater Fort, a beautiful though dilapidated historical site on the banks of the Chambal.

Varanasi

Picturesquely situated on the crescent shaped left bank of the holy River Ganges, the legendary city of Varanasi (also called Benares or Kashi) is called the ‘oldest living city’ and is one of the ancient seats of learning, culture, and the arts, in India. For centuries, Varanasi has been one of the most sacred pilgrimage sites for Hindus, drawing millions of devout pilgrims every year.

The aarati (a ritual of worship in which light from wicks soaked in ghee (clarified butter) ceremony in the evening, on the ghats (flights of steps leading down to the River) is a marvellous sight and experience. The ambience is one of brilliantly lit oil lamps, singing of bhajans (devotional songs), the mesmeric clanging of bells, and priests performing the rituals for the pooja (worship) – set against the stunning backdrop of a Ganges sunset.

An early morning boat ride on the River will take you past banks studded with ghats and temples standing beautiful. Your moment of pure joy however, is when you see the first ray of light as the sun rises from the eastern bank of the Ganges, colouring everything it touches a magical golden. Witness the incredible sight of thousands of devotees, who bathe in the holy river in the hope of attaining nirvana (salvation).

The spectacular 18th century Ramnagar Fort on the east bank is best appreciated from a boat, as it stands directly on the River. You can also disembark and enter the Fort. The Bharat Kala Bhavan Museum (inside the Banaras Hindu University) houses ancient sculptures and is a treasure trove of the city’s history.