Madhya Pradesh - The Heart of India

The ‘heart of India’, Madhya Pradesh (MP) – known in ancient times as Malwa comprising the Malwa Plateau, green countryside, the Vindhyachal Hills, reserve forests and the Narmada bisecting the state where travellers arrive for architectural heritage, wildlife, temples and its offbeat character. MP is renowned for the (10th-11th century) temples of Khajuraho (UNESCO heritage site) whose carved walls depict every aspect of life – from the erotic to the divine, the ordinary to the glorious.

The seat of the erstwhile Scindia royal family, Gwalior is dominated by the colossal hilltop Gwalior Fort which is an excellent stopover on the Agra – Orchha – Khajuraho route. MP’s clean and green capital Bhopal is a lovely blend of modern capital and old city with lakeside character. 40 km south of Bhopal, lies the archaeological treasure Bhimbetka – the world’s largest group of rock shelters having pre-historic paintings by cave-dwellers. Sanchi (UNESCO heritage site), the 3rd century BCE Buddhist centre established by Emperor Ashoka, the oldest Buddhist archaeological site in existence. Orchha, the capital city of the Bundela kings (16th and 17th centuries) dazzles with its fabulous temples, palaces, and royal cenotaphs. Mandu Ruins, Riverside heritage of Maheshwar, heritage of Dhar are some of the major transit points for travellers connecting Madhya Pradesh with Ajanta – Ellora.

The pilgrim town of Ujjain is one of the four cities in India to hold the spectacular Kumbh Mela and home to one of the 12 most significant Lord Shiva temples. MP is renowned for its parks that offer experience of a Tiger sighting. Kanha, Bandhavgarh, Satpura, Panna, and Pench are the best known and most organised with safari infrastructure and lodges. Pachmarhi is a beautiful hill-station with a colonial character where one arrives for an experience of an offbeat hill station with quiet character.

Bandhavgarh

The Bandhavgarh National Park is a smaller park (as compared to Kanha) in Central India, renowned for its Tiger sightings. It was once the game reserve of the maharajas of Rewa. The Bandhavgarh being away from major cities of India, offers less touristy and more exclusive experience, attracting sophisticated wildlife travellers and Tiger photographers. The Park offers travellers plenty by way of a marvellous forest experience – wildlife such as deer and wild boar; the beautiful birds; the fresh, crisp morning air; and the gorgeous mossy ambience of the forest itself. Bandhavgarh has ranges of flat-topped hills on its flanks, large meadows, and three rivers flowing through. The terrain changes from sal forest and bamboo to grassland and swamps.

Tala, Magadhi and Khitauli are the three main entrances to the Park with Tala and Magadhi being the most sought after for Tiger Photography. Limited Safari permits are issued for Jeep Safaris and these are required to be procured well in advance. On a safari one traverses through water bodies, grasslands, woodlands, hills and even a 1000 year old fort (popularly known as Bandhavgarh Fort featuring Lord Vishnu reclining on a bed made by Sheshnag). At the northern area of the Park are 35 stunning sandstone caves bearing Brahmi inscriptions going back to the 1st century BCE.

The evergreen forest character of Bandhavgarh ensures that the park is vibrant even during coldest of Winters and harshest of Summers, making it a sought after destination for wildlife travellers and birders right from October (When park opens) to mid-June (when park closes for Monsoon). Bandhavgarh combines well with Khajuraho (250 kms) and Kanha (260 kms) as part of an International traveller itinerary combining best of heritage and wildlife.

Kanha

The lush sal and bamboo forests, grassy meadows, and deep ravines of Kanha were the inspiration for Rudyard Kipling’s famed novel ‘The Jungle Book’.

The 2,000 sq.km Kanha National Park is one of India’s better protected Project Tiger Reserves, with stringent conservation programs to protect flora and fauna. Kanha National Park can be entered into via four zones i.e. Kanha, Khatia, Mukki and Sarhi. Khatia Gate is entry point for Kanha, Khatia and Sarhi ranges and Mukki Gate is entrance for Mukki range. The Park’s landmark achievement is the conservation of the rare and highly endangered hardground Swamp Deer (barasingha). Jeep Safaris in Kanha like every other park in Central India is organised in the mornings and evenings. The Jeep safaris (entry permits are limited and require to be booked well in advance) offer a change to spot the elusive tiger, the fierce hunter packs of wild dogs or dholes and the rare barasingha. The Jeep safari will take you to Shravantal, a beautiful water body great for bird sightings; and Bahmnidadar, the highest motorable point (2,864 feet) in the Park – the Sunset Point here offers magnificent views of the entire Banjar River Valley. For birders, there are as many as 300 bird species here, both resident and migratory. There are walking trails in the buffer zone and areas around the park that are rich in birdlife and popular with bird watchers for a walk.

Kanha offers a chance to experience an evergreen forest and the widest variety of wildlife and birdlife, that are sighted even during the coldest days of winter and harshest days of summer, making Kanha a sought after wildlife experience for travellers from Oct (when park opens) till mid-June (when park closes for monsoon).

Khajuraho

Exquisite, eloquent, and detailed depictions of lovemaking carved in sheer stone, some of the finest in the world. Khajuraho is home to a magnificent complex of 25 temples dating back to the 8th-9th centuries CE, all built by the Chandela dynasty. The temples, together a UNESCO World Heritage Site, showcase outstanding sculptures and extraordinary architectural skill, depicting – apart from erotic art – meditation, spiritual teachings, kinship, wrestling, and royalty. There are three temple groups: Western, Eastern, and Southern, all situated within a walking distance of each other.

Khajuraho town itself bears a wordly character with travellers arriving from all over the world and small restaurants serving wide ranging world cuisines. Travellers enjoy the Sound and Light show in the garden of the Western Group of Temples and Visit the Museums – ASI Museum, Jain Museum, and State Museum of Tribal and Folk Art. The Khajuraho Dance Festival held every year in February-March sees India’s finest exponents of classical dance perform against the spectacular backdrop of the floodlit temples. Its a must visit experience.

Panna National Park (40 kms), a Wildlife area renowned for its Tigers and Cultures offer an excellent contrast to the heritage character of Khajuraho. Guests staying longer at Khajuraho enjoy a day excursion to Raneh Falls, Alligator Sanctuary (Ken Ghariyal Sanctuary), enjoy luncheon at treetop restaurant (Yes, a restaurant on a Giant tree overlooking River Ken) and visit to the Panna National Park. Khajuraho, for an International traveller forms an integral part of what is now known as “North and Central India Heritage Circuit”, combining Delhi, Agra, Orchha and Varanasi.

Omkareshwar

The serene island in the beautiful River Narmada is itself a sacred site – naturally shaped to resemble the sacred symbol of ‘Om’ – the primordial, cosmic sound. Studded with green hills, Omkareshwar is connected by a cantilever-like bridge (on which vehicles are not allowed) and by boats to the mainland. The mainland is a tiny cluster of houses, temples, a bazaar and a bus stand.

Omkareshwar’s Omkar Mandhata Temple is dedicated to one of Shiva’s 12 Jyotirlingas (representing the Supreme God Shiva, a Jyotirlinga is a self-generated linga of light) in India. Thousands of pilgrims visit the shrine every year, seeking the blessings of Shiva. The ancient Temple is full of impressive old carved pillars.

The ruins of the 13th century Siddhanath Temple, decorated with figures and murals, are spectacular to look at. The shrine has a Shivalinga in the centre. The Gauri Somnath Temple can be reached via a long flight of steps cut into the hill-face west of the bridge. The red temple, strewn with antiquities, is famous for its massive, jet black (perhaps granite) Shivalinga. The Mamaleshwar Temple is the only significant shrine on the mainland. The tranquil 11th century temple complex has finely carved stones from old temples around it.

Orchha

Orchha combines the architectural splendour of a medieval town with the rustic serenity of a village. Lying on the banks of the River Betwa, Orchha was founded in the 16th century CE by the Bundela dynasty of Central India, and was their capital city. Time seems to stand still in the charming, laidback town, its fabulous structures still suffused with an air of romantic nostalgia.

The first palace to be built in Orchha’s stunning fort complex was the Raja Mahal, the official residence of the kings. The ceiling at the Diwan-i-Khas displays Persian carpet style motifs. The Rani-ka-Mahal (Queen’s Palace) has bedrooms decorated with murals depicting scenes from the Ramayana. Dauji-ki-Haveli is a nobleman’s house but looks like a miniature version of the royal palace. The most striking structure here is the Jehangir Mahal, built to commemorate Mughal Emperor Jehangir’s visit and stay. The painted palace of Rai Praveen Mahal is dedicated to the lovely courtesan and musician-poetess, Rai Parveen, wo was in love with Raja Indramani.

The centrepiece of Orchha’s temples is the large and impressive Chatturbhuj Temple. The Laxmi Narayan Temple is lavishly decorated with beautifully coloured murals in the Orchha style of painting. The Ram Raja Temple is the only shrine in India where Lord Rama is worshipped not as a god, but as a king. The Bundela kings maintained an Oont Khana (camel stable), a beautiful pavilion with elongated, arched doorways with lovely views of the citadel and the River Betwa. The 14 Royal Cenotaphs, lying on the riverbank, are the royal chhatris, memorials to the kings. Orchha is a renowned getaway for its easy connectivity with Delhi. Getaway seekers here do river rafting, explore the Orchha Wildlife Sanctuary and enjoy charming riverside stays.

Ujjain

Buddhist literature describes Ujjain, in its earliest form, as Avantipura – one of the great sovereign powers around the 6th century BCE. It became the glorious capital of the Gupta dynasty, witnessing the commencement of ‘Vikram Samvat’, a lunar calendar, some 2,068 years ago. Ujjain was immortalised by Kalidasa (one of ancient India’s greatest Sanskrit poets) who, in his most famous work Meghadūta (Cloud Messenger), lyrically described the city. He portrayed a civilised, charming society, practical yet deeply religious and philosophical.

The narrow lanes of the old city are home to traditional bazaars such as Sarafa, Patni Bazaar, and Nai Sarak, famous for their artisan shops. You will also see temples and ghats here. The ‘new’ quarter, called Free Ganj, was built along European lines by the British, and houses modern shops, eateries, and other spots that are usually marked as the ‘shopping area’.

Shiva reigns eternal in Ujjain as the presiding deity of time at the Mahakaleshwar Temple – one of the 12 Jyotirlingas (representing the Supreme God Shiva, a Jyotirlinga is a self-generated linga of light) in India. Located near a lake, the Temple sits on a vast courtyard surrounded by massive walls. It has five levels, one of which is underground. Around 8 km north of Ujjain, is the Kalideh Palace, built by the Mandu Sultans in 1485 over a Sun Temple. Though now decrepit, the Palace is set against a stunning backdrop of river waters, manmade tanks, and channels.